Redcat Racing Announces the Release of the Everest Gen7

The Everest GEN7 is a true to scale crawler and was designed from the ground up with the  help of BPC custom chassis, TG2 – Two Guys Trail Gear, and Interco tire company. The Everest Gen7 is an all exclusive Redcat Racing vehicle, so you’ll need to go through an actual Redcat dealer to get one.

Redcat wanted to build the best RC trail truck possible, so they enlisted the help from some of the best in the business. BPC and TG2 have the hands-on experience needed, running and designing full sized rock crawlers and trail rigs, to help design the perfect combination of performance and scale looks. The GEN7 uses a one of a kind 3mm steel ladder frame chassis, which supports many different set up options for serious off roaders. Its unique design not only looks cool, but puts the weight where it’s needed for true-to-scale performance. With an adjustable wheelbase & multiple shock mounting positions the GEN7 can be set up the way you want it.

Redcat didn’t stop there. What better way to throw down traction than with exact replicas of some of the best and well known tires in in off roading community? Redcat achieved the traction needed for a scale crawler by enlisting the help of Interco tire corporation, an absolute leader in the full scale offroad tire industry. Redcat asked Interco for their help, and once they saw what was happening over at Redcat, they were happy to contribute to the GEN7 project. If you’re into off roading, you’ve definitely heard of the Super Swamper tire. Interco’s IROK Super Swamper tires have been leading the pack for years, and they’re only getting better. The GEN7 is equipped with fully licensed scale replicas of one of the most successful off road tires on the planet, the Interco Irok Super Swamper.  Now that the GEN7 has an amazing design and some of the best tires available, incorporating functional beadlock wheels into the mix allows the user to quickly swap out the foam tire inserts for different trail conditions, similar to adjusting air pressure, like the full scale drivers do. If you’re looking for total domination, you might just find it in the Redcat Racing Everest GEN7 scale trail truck.

The GEN7 is ready to run right out of the box and includes solid front and rear ‘lock-out’ axles, waterproof electronics, true 1.9 inch functional beadlock rims and ships with Irok Super Swamper tires, officially licensed by Interco Tire Corporation. The GEN7 has a custom mounted polycarbonate body shell which includes a decal pack so you can get the scale look that the crawler community wants these days. The GEN7 is available in two versions, the Pro version and the Sport version. Both versions are very capable rigs and will provide loads trail excitement, but the Pro version includes many scale extras and performance upgrades like threaded aluminum shocks, aluminum solid axle hubs, pro tire inserts, CVA front axles, steel axle skid plates, inner fender wells, tilt body, easy access roll cage, fender flares with rock rails, a realistic looking scale roof rack with detailed scale accessory pack, snorkel, and scale light bar (lights not included).

Both Vehicles Include:

Motor Type: Electric Brushed 550

Transmission: Forward & Reverse

Drive System: Center Drive, Single Brushed Motor – 4 Wheel Drive

Tires: Interco Irok Super Swampers (licensed)

Rims: 1.9 Beadlock Wheels with 2mm Thick Lock Rings

Wheelbase:  12.5in (adjustable).

Chassis Type: 3mm  Steel Ladder-Frame Design

Speed Control: Waterproof Brushed

Radio System: 2.4GHz Radio System

Sport Model Specs:

Shocks: Aluminum Capped Oil Filled

Front Axles: Dogbone

Tire Inserts: Sport Foams

Differentials: Locked Plastic Axle Hubs

Body: Detailed Polycarbonate Body with Customizable Sticker Pack

Scale Accessories: Detailed Bumpers

Battery: 7.2v 2000mAh NiMH

Pro Model Specs:

Shocks: Aluminum Threaded Body Oil Filled

Front Axles: CVA Axles

Tire Inserts: Pro Foams

Differentials: Locked Aluminum Axle Hubs

Body: Detailed Polycarbonate Tilt Body with Full Roll Cage and Customizable Sticker Pack

Scale Accessories: Detailed Bumpers with Shackles, Steel Axle Skid Plates, Inner Fender Wells, Fender Flares with Rock Rails, A Realistic Looking Scale Roof Rack with Detailed Scale Accessory Pack, Snorkel, and scale Light Bar (lights not included).

Battery: 7.2v 3000mAh NiMH

 

 

 

 

 

Volcano 18 Mini Monster Truck

RedCat Racing has lowered the minimum advertised price of the Volcano 18 Mini Monster Truck from $99.99 to $89.99.  I personally own one of these trucks, and it is so much fun it is actually addictive.

Product Features

Want to get started in hobby grade RC but short on space? Meet the Volcano-18 Version 2 1:18th scale RC vehicles. Small 1:18th scale size with big performance and fully waterproof!

Each of the Volcano 18 V2’s have an electric brushed motor, 2-in-1 ESC/Receiver, and 7.4V 800mAh Li-ion rechargeable battery pack. These RTR vehicles are complete with Li-ion charger.

Aggressive offroad tires and 4WD drivetrain are great for gripping multiple terrains while coil over shocks absorb bumps.

These easy to use 1:18th scale Volcano-18 V2 vehicles can be driven indoors or out. Set up a course in the living room or kick up dirt outside. There are many options with the Volcano-18 V2 series by Redcat Racing.

Grab a Volcano-18 V2 RC vehicle today and feel the earth shake beneath your feet!

New Landslide Monster Truck Available

 

Landslide XTE 1/8 Scale Brushless Electric Monster Truck

Product Features:

The 1/8 scale Landslide XTe monster truck provides the speed and excitement you want, with the ease of electrics. The Landslide XTe is fully assembled and ready to run but requires quantity 2 LiPo batteries and compatible LiPo charger.

An EZRUN-80A brushless ESC regulates power to the 1920kv RC-550 brushless motor which provides plenty of power for car crushing action!

The motor / ESC combo provide plenty of low end power for quick off the line acceleration while adrenaline pumping top speeds will leave you trembling!

The Landslide XTe 4wd monster truck is the bashers dream with sealed differentials, adjustable suspension, aluminum capped oil filled adjustable shocks & brushless powerful motor.

The aggressive monster truck tires scream “natural disaster”! These meats are made to tear up the terrain while offering great wear characteristics. There’s no need to go around when you can drive over with the Landslide XTe 4×4 electric powered Monster Truck!

 

Introducing the New Landslide Monster Truck

 

Landslide XTE 1/8 Scale Brushless Electric Monster Truck

Product Features:

The 1/8 scale Landslide XTe monster truck provides the speed and excitement you want, with the ease of electrics. The Landslide XTe is fully assembled and ready to run but requires quantity 2 LiPo batteries and compatible LiPo charger.

An EZRUN-80A brushless ESC regulates power to the 1920kv RC-550 brushless motor which provides plenty of power for car crushing action!

The motor / ESC combo provide plenty of low end power for quick off the line acceleration while adrenaline pumping top speeds will leave you trembling!

The Landslide XTe 4wd monster truck is the bashers dream with sealed differentials, adjustable suspension, aluminum capped oil filled adjustable shocks & brushless powerful motor.

The aggressive monster truck tires scream “natural disaster”! These meats are made to tear up the terrain while offering great wear characteristics. There’s no need to go around when you can drive over with the Landslide XTe 4×4 electric powered Monster Truck!

 

Giant 1/6 Scale Brushless Electric Shredder Monster Truck is Now Available!

Product Features:

Shredder – 1/6 Scale Brushless Electric Truck –

Batteries & Charger Not Included

The Shredder series of 1/6 scale vehicles is back after a two- year hiatus. This new version now has bigger tires, bigger shocks and many other enhancements to make it stronger and more competitive than ever before.

When most large scale brushless vehicles are at least double the Shredder price, it makes it very difficult for most RC enthusiasts to experience the true fun of a large- scale vehicle. This is and always has been the goal of the Shredder.

Experience large scale fun at half the price!

Rough Rider RC is Entering the Competition Racing Drone Arena.

 

 

The Redcat Carbon 210 Race Drone is a ready to fly professional racing drone.   With a fully carbon fiber chassis, HD camera, brushless motors, and high-end electronics, the Carbon 210 is perfect for those wanting to get into competition drone racing.

The FPV (first person view) ready Carbon 210 race drone (goggles not included) allows the pilot to view what the drone views, as if the pilot were sitting inside the drone. A 600TVL camera and 5.8GHz 40 channel video transmitter allow for clear real-time video transmission. (video receiver and display not included)

Are you into speed? The Carbon 210 Race Drone can reach speeds of 45mph! While the Carbon 210 is fast, precise, and 3D maneuverable, it’s not just for professional drone racers. With its SPRacing F3 flight controller, the Carbon 210 is stable, easy to fly, and can be adjusted to fit the specific needs of the racer. Beginners and pros alike will enjoy the Carbon 210. The included 6 channel transmitter allows to select, on the fly, three different flight modes, stabilize, intermediate, and advanced. This allows the improving drone racer to be comfortable and competitive throughout his/her entire learning curve.

The Carbon 210 includes a sturdy aluminum carrying case, which houses all of its included components, like the 6-channel transmitter, drone, propellers, LIPO battery pack, LIPO balance charger, connection cables, and tools. All that is required for you to buy separately are 4x AA batteries for the transmitter. Get into drone racing today with the Redcat Carbon 210.

RedCat Racing Our New Vendor

                      

Rough Rider RC is pleased to announce our new vendor RedCat racing. 

We will be featuring top off the line remote controlled drones, cars, dune buggies, rock crawlers and trucks, discounted 10% to 50% off MSRP.  Go to my store page, and check out my new selection of remote controlled vehicles.

Good Luck & Good Racing

 

 

HOW TO GET STARTED RC RACING

So, you’re ready to start racing at an organized event like RCCAR you say? Great! Now you just need to know what the rules are, what to do, and when to do it!

Equipment:

First off let’s start with what you should bring to the track. If you’re running Electric you’ll need all your charging gear, chargers, power supply, batteries etc. There is power at RCCAR and at all the permanent tracks although most of the temporary parking lot tracks don’t have power, so check ahead of time. Nitro races, you’ll want to bring your fuel, fuel bottle, and receiver battery charger or spare batteries. And for both you’ll want a chair, folding table to work on, and I recommend some sort of canopy for some shade for both you and your pit table. The pits at RCCAR are a first come-first serve basis. Just setup where you like, and if you get there real early, make sure you leave room for timing and scoring, and the track of course!

Some other notes on equipment, if you are running electric, you need to have at least two battery packs, and I would recommend having three good battery packs for your qualifiers and main event, plus some practice packs. 2000’s don’t really like to be charged more than once-a-day, although 3000’s can be charged as often as three times if you cool them down before re-charging them.

If you are running Nitro, it’s a good idea to have a buddy to help you out in the pits, this way you have someone to fill up your car before the qualifier, have someone to start you off in the main event, and if you have a flame-out, you can get some help getting it started again.

Your Car:

For RCCAR, the rules are simple, and if you follow these guidelines you should be fine.

Width: 190mm max for Electric, 200mm max for Nitro. These are the ‘standard’ widths so for both cars, so you should be fine. And only HPI and Kyosho make it easy to switch between the two widths.

Wings: The rear wing should the one that which was included with the body, and should not extend above the roof of the car.

Body: The body must be painted, and although sedan bodies are encouraged, anybody may be used.

Tires/Wheels: Tires must be rubber (no foam tires). Although any rubber tire is legal, I’d recommend picking up a set of Yokomo Firm Sprints (ZR-206F) with Yokomo Firm Foam Inserts (ZR-034F) on a 24mm rim. (1/8th scale .15 Expert Gas and F1 foam tires are legal)

Electric Motors: Basically, you have two classes of motors, Stock and Modified. A Stock motor is a 27turn, 24 deg motor. (Pink Can, 36 deg stock motors are not legal) A modified motor is everything else, aka 13turn, 10 turn motors.

I would recommend if this were your first race, that you should run Sportsman Stock, and get your feet wet there. Once you’ve got that down, then move up to either Sportsman Mod, or to Expert Stock.

Nitro Motors: In Sedan, you may run pretty much any .10 through .15 Nitro Motor.

Radio Gear:

This is a very important thing to remember. Make sure you have more than once Frequency Channel for your Radio and Car. When your sign-up at the track, give them your primary channel and any backups you might have. This helps to make sure there are no conflicts between drivers in your heat or main.

Race Day:

Plan on being at the track by 8:00 am at the latest if you want to take full advantage of open practice. 7:00 am if you want to help us setup the track. Get some practice packs Charged! When the track opens for practice, and you’re ready to go out and practice, go to the back of the driver’s stand, and look for your frequency on the board. If it’s not there, DON’T TURN ON YOUR RADIO until it is! You should NEVER turn on your radio in the pits at any time, and during practice only when you have the clip, and never during a qualifier or main if you are not running in that heat. There may be someone else running the same frequency as you.

OK, now we’ve got a frequency clip, and you’re ready to go practice. Wait, what was that word again? PRACTICE. This is not a race. You are out there to learn the track layout, and make sure your car works ok and has the proper setup. If a faster car comes up on you, let him by, this isn’t a race. In fact, the BEST thing you can do is to find someone to follow around the track so you can work on the proper lines and braking points. Remember that the fast way around the track is not to hit anything when you’re just getting started. If your car is working good, run out that battery and then bring it in (return your frequency clip) and return to the pits and change batteries and go out again. If your car is not working correct, aka spinning out, or pushing too much, bring it in and make some changes. Don’t bother running your battery out if the car isn’t working. Go make some changes. If you’re not sure what to do, ask someone who has the same car you have, or check out RCRacing.com’s Article on Basic Car Setup by August MacBeth.

Now with practice over, and the heats posted, it’s time to go find out when you’ll be up for your first qualifying heat. Get your batteries charged (if running Electric) and plan on going up to timing and scoring the race before yours and pick up your transponder. The transponder should match your car number listed on the Heat Sheet. (You’ll need to drill a hole in your windshield for your transponder if you don’t have a dedicated transponder mount. The transponder must be between the front and rear wheels and be mounted horizontally. The safest place is in the windshield.) Once the heat that is currently running, is finished and have all turned off their cars, you may turn your car on and put it on the track and take your place on the drivers stand. Take a single lap to get warmed up and then stage yourself behind the start/finish bridge (make sure you stop in a safe spot if others are still warming up). Next wait for your Car number or name to be called and run your qualifier. Each person starts his or her own clock, so you don’t need to ‘race’ with anyone at this point. Just try to get the best qualifier in that you can. If someone faster comes up behind you, let him by, if your tangle with him, it will only hurt both of your qualifiers. Remember to keep it between the boards, and you’ll have a good qualifier! When the buzzer sounds, continue racing until your name or car number is called. Because everyone started on their own clock, some people may finish before others, so when your name or number is called, make sure you pull your car off in a safe area ASAP so you don’t interfere with someone else who may still be on the clock. OK, you’re pumped; you’ve got your first qualifier in! But wait! You’re not done! Return your transponder to timing and scoring and the go out and turn marshal for the next race! Very important, you’ll get docked a lap off your best qualifier if you don’t turn marshal. When you turn marshal, remember that other cars on the track have the right away, but try and get to anyone who is stuck as quick as possible and safe.

All right, now get ready for the second round of qualifying. This will start right after the last race of round one.

Once qualifying is over, the race officials will print out the mains. The mains are based on your qualifying. The top ten qualifiers in each class will make up the ‘A’ Main, the next ten will be in the ‘B’ Main, and on down the line. So, find out where you will be starting, and note your NEW race number and possible NEW CAR NUMBER. Your car number is NOT your starting position, so make sure you check the sheet carefully. Make sure you grab the correct transponder for the mains, as it may be different than what you had been using.

Now the starts for the mains will be different than they were during qualifying. This time you will line up in Qualifying order, and everyone will go at the sound of the tone, and NOW we’re racing! This is a race, but if you happen to hit someone and spin them out, do the right thing and wait for them to get going again before you take off. It’s the sportsman like thing to do. Hopefully you’ll be the first to the finish line after the tone sounds again and you’ll be the winner of your heat! In some cases, during Nitro races there may be ‘bump-ups’ for the winner. What this means if you win your ‘C’ or ‘B’ main, you can move up and run in the next race, starting in the 10th spot. This is not done in electric since it takes too long to change batteries, and is too much heat for an electric motor to handle all at once.

Right, your day is over! Please lend a hand in putting the track away, and pick up and trash around your pit, if you decide to hang out, there is always a group of guys that go get some Pizza after the even, everyone is welcome!

Remember if you have any questions at a race, please don’t hesitate to ask a race official, they’ll be happy to help!

By: Dennis Racine

Become a Rock Star

What is Rock Racing?  Just as regular off-road racing has ROAR & IFMAR to promote & sanction races.   U4RC promotes and sanctions R/C races.  Rock Racing can be as loose as meeting with a bunch of buddies at the park, or as defined as any other organized R/C racing competition.  In an official U4RC race these basic rules apply;

  • All power must be electric.
  • Electronics on your vehicle must be hidden.
  • You must have a 4WD drive train.
  • Suspension, tires, body, tube chassis, interior and drivers must all be to scale.
  • Remember Rock Racing is more about scale than performance.
  • Vehicles must be rock racers or scale trail rigs, no short-course trucks, monster trucks or basher-styles vehicles are allowed.

There are six different classes defined by 1.9 or 2.2 inches of tire size, and if you have an independent or a solid axle suspension.

The race director will decide which class to put your vehicle in.

If you don’t have a local track nearby you can make one!  Just invite a bunch of buddies on Facebook, all takes are a little sweat and time.

Reference: www.u4rc.com

Good Luck and Good Racing!

rrrc-rock-racer